Choice Cookery | Catherine Owen | Cooking | Audiobook full unabridged | English | 3/3
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Choice cookery is not intended for households that have to study economy, except where economy is a relative term; where, perhaps, the housekeeper could easily spend a dollar for the materials of a luxury, but could not spare the four or five dollars a caterer would charge.
Many families enjoy giving little dinners, or otherwise exercising hospitality, but are debarred from doing so by the fact that anything beyond the ordinary daily fare has to be ordered in, or an expensive extra cook engaged. And although we may regret that hospitality should ever be dependent on fine cooking, we have to take things as they are. It is not every hostess who loves simplicity that dares to practise it.
It was to help the women who wish to know at a glance what is newest and best in modern cookery that these chapters were written for Harper’s Bazar, and are now gathered into a book. It is hoped by the writer that the copious details and simplification of different matters will enable those who have already achieved success in the plainer branches of cookery to venture further, and realize for themselves that it is only the “first step that costs.” – Summary by the Preface
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chapter 24 of choice cookery this is a librivox recording all librivox recordings are in the public domain for more information or to volunteer please visit librivox.org recording by brandon weston choice cookery by Katherine Owen chapter 24 jellies continued if it is kept in mind that two ounces of gelatin to the quart of liquid is the right proportion and that if even a tablespoon of flavoring fruit juice or whatnot is added exactly the same quantity of other liquid must be omitted there will be not much danger of a formless jelly many forget this when not working from an exact recipe and remembering only that a quart of cream or water or wine requires two ounces of gelatin to set it they do not deduct for the glass of wine or juice of lemon etc they may add for flavoring although wine jelly is rather a simple form of sweet too suggestive of innocent country teas a very little more time than the average housekeeper bestows upon it will convert it into a very elegant dish in the season for fruits there is no more beautiful ornament for jelly than these carefully gathered with two or three leaves attached jelly with fresh fruits select cherries of two or three colors if possible and sprays of two or three and on each a leaf or to wash them carefully by dipping them in and out of a bowl of water lay them between soft cloths to remove all moisture make a quart of punch jelly in the following way put together a pint of water a quarter of a pint of the finest Santa Cruz or Jamaica Rum a quarter of a pint of sherry a gill and half of lemon juice the rinds of two lemons and the juice of one orange or if oranges are not to be obtained in cherry season half a Gilmour of water 2 ounces of gelatin half an inch of cinnamon the whites of two eggs well beaten and the shells crushed let this come to a boil over the fire being well whisked the while as soon as it boils draw it to a cool spot on the range let it stand five minutes and strain through scalded flannel for a bowl let it drip but do not use the least pressure the jelly must be brilliantly clear if there is any milky appearance it proves that the jelly did not really boil and so the eggs had not completely coagulated in that event boil once more for an instant and strain again through fresh flannel oil a mold that has no design a fruit or vegetable at the bottom and set it in cracked ice pour in an inch or two of the jelly when nearly cold have the cherries iced cold and arranged the sprays gracefully with due regard to color remembering that the best effect must not be upward towards you but towards the bottom of the mold thus the underside of the leaves must be upward etc do not put in more fruit than will display itself well the bunches are to be isolated not allowed to touch each other and for this reason it may not be possible to lay more than one cluster at the bottom if the mold is small there in this case dispose a bunch of black cherries and leaves gracefully in the center pour and more jelly half an inch or so then near the sides arrange lighter color cherries two or three clusters no more the fruit is only intended as an ornament a jelly that is quite as pretty may be made by using clusters of red and white or red white and black currants the red and white ones should have two or three young leaves attached and each cluster be perfect no black currant leaves must be used as they have a strong flavor jelly with candied fruits make a quart of maraschino jelly which is done by omitting the rum lemon and cinnamon from the last recipe and using in place of rum a Gill of maraschino and water in place of lemon juice the jelly must be very pale choose the fruits of as bright colors as possible small green oranges red cherries bright yellow Mirabelle's Angelica perfectly green cut the oranges in half two or three will suffice leave Mirabelle's and cherries whole apricots cut in half moons the Angelika if cut across a quarter inch thick will form rings but if something more ornamental is desired it can be split lengthwise softened under hot water wiped and then tied into small love knots pour into a mold set in ice the melon shape is excellent for these jellies an inch of jelly let it set then scatter in a few pieces of bright colored fruit always the best side downward pour in an inch more of jelly and when set more fruit keeping the brighter pieces toward the side if you have knots of Angelica put them near the side always see that one layer of fruit and jelly is nearly set before adding more although fruits added to jellies in the wages described are chiefly for decorative effect they do add very greatly to the pleasure of eating them but jellied fruits as distinguished from fruits and jelly are a delicious mode of eating fruit and where it is an abundance afford a pleasant variety jellied raspberries melt 2 ounces of gelatin in a Gill of water squeeze half a pint of currant juice from fresh currants and crush as many red raspberries as will with the liquid fill a quart measure it is almost impossible to give definite directions for sugar as fruits differ so much stir in 6 ounces then if not sweet enough add more mould the jelly and serve with cream this is also very nice put in a boarder mold the center filled with whipped cream Roman punch jellies these requires stiff paper cases of any of the ornamental kinds used for ice cream but they must not flare make some maraschino or wine jelly when it begins to scent pour the jellies into the cases which must be on ice so that half of the fluid jelly may set before it has time to soak the case when quite set very carefully removed the center leaving a shell of jelly half of an inch think the last thing before serving fill the centers with well frozen Roman punch ice a method one of fruits if well managed and a good assortment of fruits can be had is a very ornament way of serving fruit a mold should have half an inch of maraschino punch wine or lemon jelly poured into it then some perfect strawberries or failing those red cherries as many as the jelly will hold together without crowding no more then more jelly and a layer of fruit of another kind white if possible as pineapple cut into stars a number of small stars can be stamped out of a few thin slices more jelly and a ring of dark fruit take care that all the finest fruits are used to form the outer rows when the mold is almost full with a layer or two of each kind of fruit fill it up with jelly and set on ice creams are a favorite sweet and Europe and eaten ice-cold are delicious too often they are confounded here with blanc Monge which may mean anything from cornstarch and milk to gelatin and cream but seldom is improved by the confectioner's art into a really handsome and dainty dish ginger cream make a custard of a Gill of milk an ounce of powdered sugar and a beaten yolks of three eggs stir in a double boiler until thick let it cool then add one Gill of the syrup from a jar of preserved ginger and cut up two ounces of the ginger add three quarters of an ounce of gelatin melted in as little water as possible last of all add half a pint of cream whipped solid mix gently until well blended pour into a mold and set on ice Neapolitan cream make a custard of half a pint of milk the yolks of four eggs and tablespoonful and a half of powdered sugar let it cool cut up three ounces of preserved ginger very small cook it in a Gill of ginger syrup for three minutes let it cool also decorate the mold with one ounce of dried cherries and leaves etc of jelly cut the cherries in half glue them with a little melted jelly to the side and bottom of the mold cut some jelly in thin slices or melted and let it run into thin sheets which allow to chill and stamp from them the leaves or what shapes you please glue these also to the side of the mold in the most effective way your taste can devise stir one ounce of gelatin melted in very little water and half a pint of cream whipped solid to the custard with which you have already mixed the ginger and syrup pour all into the decorated mold put on ice and when it is to be turned out wrap a cloth dipped in hot water around the mold give it a smart slap on both sides and it will turn out without difficulty end of chapter 24 chapter 25 of choice cookery this is a librivox recording all librivox recordings are in the public domain for more information or to volunteer please visit librivox.org recording by Betty bee choice cookery by Katherine Owen chapter 25 cold sweets creams coffee cream McAlpine have custard with two eggs and half a pint of milk dissolve an ounce of gelatin and three ounces of sugar in half a gale of strong coffee add the custard and strain whip half a pint of cream quite firm stir lightly into the custard when it is cool pour into a mold and set on ice the excellence of this cream depends on the coffee which must be filtered not boiled freshly made and very strong three tablespoonfuls of coffee to the half pint Kuras al creme make a custard with the yolks of four eggs and half a pint of milk dissolve half an ounce of gelatin in as little liquid as possible mix it with two ounces of powdered sugar add to the custard then stir in a generous glass of curse out and let the mixture cool after which add half a pint of cream whipped solid stir very lightly together until well blended then mold and set on ice strawberry cream halt a pint of quite ripe strawberries put them on a fine sieve and sprinkle an ounce of sugar over them put half an ounce of gelatin into a stooop in with two tablespoonfuls of cold water two ounces and a half of powdered sugar and the juice of a lemon and let it dissolve by gentle heat past the strawberries through the sieve strain the gelatin etc to the strawberry juice and put to get cold then add half a pint of cream whipped solid stir very lightly to the strawberry juice etc when the latter is beginning to scent vanilla cream make a custard with 3 yolks and 1 white of egg and half a pint of milk and 3 ounces of sugar melt an ounce of gelatin and two tablespoonfuls of water strain it to the custard and mix well with half a pint of cream to a stiff froth and stir it gently to the custard and gelatin flavor with vanilla after the vanilla is added make a couple of spoonfuls of the custard pink with cochineal or strawberry juice let this cool in a thin sheet stamp from its small clover leaves or lozenges not over an inch long and three-quarters broad decorate the bottom of a mold with them using a little gelatin and water to fasten them set the mold in chopped dice and about half way up put four or five of the pink pieces take great care there is no inequality as to height or distance slovenly direction is worse than none when the lozenges are quite secure in their places pour in the cream it is needless to repeat this form of decoration of creams they can be varied so infinitely by individual taste but as a rule they should be decorated only with small forms cut out a bright colored jelly or of cream-colored pink orange pistach green or brown candied fruits are not effective although sometimes used unless the cream itself has fruit in it pistach cream half an ounce of gelatin 2 ounces of powdered sugar melt the gelatin in a Gill of water then add the sugar a glass of sherry and a glass of Kirsch with half a pint of thick cream solid and when the gelatin is cold and beginning to thicken stir the cream to it very lightly and at the same time two ounces of pistachio nuts blanched and chopped fine with enough vegetable green coloring to make the cream a shade or two lighter in color than the nuts this cream must be stirred lightly on ice after the nuts are added till thick enough for them not to sink almond cream half an ounce of gelatin melted in a Gill of water with two ounces of sugar and a glass of sherry grate four ounces of almond paste into it and stir in a double boiler or bowl set in boiling water until dissolved or at least until there are no lumps let this get cool hwhip a pint and a Gill of cream solid and stir to the mixture decorate a mould with any red jelly pour the mixture in and set on ice in consequence of the variation in the strength of gelatin in making any of these creams try a little on ice in a saucer before pouring into a mold then add more cream or gelatin as required cold puddings and frozen puddings some of these puddings might just as appropriately be called creams however fashion ordains that they shall be puddings one of the newest is the Jubilee pudding make a pint of claret jelly pour it into a small border mould with paths a pint of cream in which is a quarter of an ounce of dissolved gelatin when it is whipped solid stir in one ounce of preserved or candied cherries one ounce of candied Angelica one ounce of preserved ginger and one ounce of preserved apricot the ginger and Angelica cut small set on ice then turn out pile the whipped cream and fruit in the center and decorate according to fancy called souffle pudding a la princess melt half an ounce of gelatin in a Gill of creme said in boiling water till dissolved beat the yolks of three eggs well and add to the milk when well mix put the custard into a double boiler till it thickens it must not boil pour it into a bowl and add a gale of apricot preserves made into a puree by rubbing through a sieve with half a gill of orange juice two ounces of sugar a little lemon juice and cochineal to colored a very delicate pink beat the whites of four eggs till they will not slip stir them in very lightly with an upward motion of the spoon the object being to keep the white of egg from falling yet the hole must be thoroughly mixed stir till nearly cold before putting the souffle in a mold to set Imperial rice pudding for a quarter of a pint of clear white jelly into a quart mold turning the mould about so that the jelly covers every part this jelly serves to keep the ornaments in place cover the inside of the mold with an ounce of candy cherries split and half an ounce of Angelica cut into thin rings stew a quarter of a pound of rice in a pint of milk till tender when cool at half a pint of whipped cream a quarter of an ounce of gelatin melted in a little water a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar and a teaspoon full of vanilla when it is all well mixed turn the preparation in to the mold and set on ice when firm turn out of the mold and serve with the puree of apricots diplomatic pudding make a quart of custard in the following way put the yolks of four eggs and the white of one into a bowl and mix well with a wooden spoon stir in half a pint of milk and strain all into a double boiler or a pitcher add two ounces of sugar and stay on the pitcher unless you have the double boiler in a saucepan of boiling water and stir the custard over the fire until it thickens but it must not boil remove from the fire stir in a tablespoon full of brandy and a little vanilla line the plain mold with half a pint of wine jelly this is done by pouring a little in at a time when it is half fluid rolling the mold about on ice and as soon as one coat adheres pour in more until the mold is evenly coated decorate with half an ounce of candy cherries and half an ounce of Angelica the cherry split Angelica cut melt an ounce of gelatin and two ounces of sugar in a Gill of water stir it into the custard with a Gill of thick cream stir till cool then add an ounce more cherries half an ounce of Angelica and half an ounce of Citroen all chopped small pour this gently into the mold you have decorated set on ice turn out and serve cold cabinet pudding ornament the bottom of a pint mold with candy cherries in Angelica split half a dozen ladyfingers line the sides of the mold very evenly with them arranging them alternately back in front against the mold put in two ounces of ratafia s' these are tiny macaroons about the size of a five cent piece of high flavor and to be obtained at the pastry cooks who make foreign specialties some grocers also import them put four yolks of eggs into a bowl stir them then add half a pint of milk pour this custard into a double boiler and stir until it thickens taking care that it does not curdle melt half an ounce of gelatin in a very little water strain it to the custard when the latter cools add half a gill of thick fresh cream two ounces of sugar and a teaspoon full of vanilla mix all well and pour carefully into the mold without disturbing the lining of cake put the mold on ice and when set turn out and serve end of chapter 25 chapter 26 of choice cookery this is a librivox recording all librivox recordings are in the public domain for more information or to volunteer please visit librivox.org recording by Betty bee choice cookery by Katherine Owen chapter 26 creams and frozen puddings nut creams with the exception of almond are not very well known but are so delicious that they ought to be one reason perhaps is that it is not generally known their kernels of nuts such as hazelnuts walnuts hickory nuts etc can be bought by the pound and confectioner supply stores this of course saves the tedious work of cracking and shelling to use with creams or for frozen puddings the nuts must be pounded very well with very little white of egg just enough to moisten and render the process easy coconut cream grate a fresh sweet coconut having first peeled washed and wiped it dry mixed with it an ounce of sugar melt in as little water as possible 3/4 of an ounce of gelatin with the whites of three eggs mix them with half a pint of milk and stir over the fire until the custard thickens sweetened with four tablespoonfuls of sugar stir the gelatin and a full half pint of grated coconut with the coconut milk into the custard with half a pint of thick cream solid and stir it very carefully into the custard when the latter is quite cold but before it sets flavor with a little vanilla or lemon extract mold and set on ice hazelnut cream put a pint of hazelnut kernels into a cool oven until they are thoroughly dry and rather hot they must not become too hot or they will change flavor then rub them between two coarse cloths to get rid of as much as possible of the skin it cannot be entirely removed blow away the loose halls and pound the nuts to a paste with a little white of egg make a custard with the yolks of three eggs and half a pint of milk dissolve half an ounce of gelatin in a Gill of water mixed with 6 ounces of powdered sugar and add to the custard when nearly cool stirring the hazelnut paste taking care that it is well mixed with the custard and add a half a pint of cream whipped solid flavor with vanilla or you may omit flavoring a hazelnut being sufficient for many people mold and set on ice this cream and the two that follow are flecked with brown for which reason it may be colored brown with caramel although I prefer it uncoloured the specks being no more objectionable than the vanilla seeds 1 rejoice to see an ice-cream walnut or Hickory Nut cream pound one pint in either of these nuts after rubbing them well in a cloth make the same custard as for hazelnut cream stirring the walnut or hickory nut paste till smooth and the whipped cream color a pale pink with cochineal and flavor faintly with rum or vanilla mold set on ice and served with whipped cream flavored slightly with rum bohemian jelly creams these may be made of any flavor according to the jelly you use it may be jelly of fruit or liqueur if fresh fruit is used for jelly the juice must be expressed and well sweet and gelatin added in the proportion of announced to the pint if jam or marmalade is used a pint of water is added and the same amount of gelatin with the juice of half a lemon to the pint water jam and dissolve gelatin must be mixed quickly and passed through a sieve either must be stirred in a bowl set in ice till quite cold and beginning to thicken then stir in gently and quickly three-quarters of a pint of cream whipped solid pour the mixture into the mold which must be set in ice cover well and keep on I still needed frangipani iced pudding grate 6 ounces of almond paste to crumbs then on a smaller grater grate 4 or 6 bitter almonds blanched and dried found a dozen candied orange flower petals with 3/4 of a pound of powdered sugar put all into a stew pan with the yolks of 8 eggs and beat them very well together in another stew pan have a pint and a half of boiling milk which must be poured over the other ingredients by degrees keeping them well stirred place it over the fire stirring until it thickens and adheres to the back of the spoon well dissolve through a coarse sieve add a glass of sherry and when cold pour the mixture into the freezer when half frozen at a pint and a half of whipped cream and when quite frozen fill a pudding mold bury it in ice and salt and serve as you would Nesselrode pudding iced cabinet pudding cut a stale sponge cake in two slices half an inch thick and rather smaller than the mould you intend to use for the pudding lay the slices of cake to soak and brandy flavored with Noyo decorate the bottom and sides of the mould with candy truths split cherries Angelica rings the same of green oranges and little Diamonds of ginger with a few hole which happiest dipping them in jelly to make them adhere lay in one slice of cake then cherries and –which a feeis another slice of cake and so on until the mold is three parts full make a quart of custard with six yolks of eggs three tablespoonfuls of sugar and an ounce of gelatin when this is cold pour part into the mold which must close hermetically pack it in salt and ice for at least two hours when you wish to turn it out dip it a minute in lukewarm water keep the remaining custard on ice flavor it with sherry or rum beat it up pour it around the pudding and strew it with chopped pistachio nuts ice pudding make a custard with a pint and a half of milk one whole egg and the yolks of four others and a quarter of a pound of sugar when cold add half a glass of brandy a glass of maraschino an ounce of citrine cut fine a quarter of a pound of dried fruits and an ounce of pistachio nuts the fruits cut up in small pieces the pistachio nuts blanched and split mix well and lastly add half a pint of whipped cream when well frozen packed into a pudding mold and bury in ice and salt to want it Bombay ice pudding line a plain mold with Roman punch ice an inch thick keeping it bedded nearly to the brim in ice and salt while you do it then fill the center with the following mixture a pint of coconut grated very fine mixed with a pint of ice cream take great care that the coconut is ice-cold before you mix it in or it will melt the ice cream when the mold is filled within an inch of the top cover it with Roman punch close the mold hermetically and very a nice these puddings where two kinds of ice are used must only be attempted after one has learned to pack plain ice cream with success iced jelly pudding Nica custard with a pint of boiling cream three ounces of sugar and the yolks of four eggs beaten pour the cream to the eggs very carefully stirring it in by degrees have ready a quarter of an ounce of gelatin dissolved in very little milk mix it in and put the vessel containing the custard in a stew pan of boiling water and stir till it just thickens then whisk it until nearly cold mask a quart mold with jelly an inch thick any favorite red jelly or a pale one tinted directions have already been given how the inside of a mold is to be coated with jelly there's an easier but extravagant way namely to fill the mold with jelly then scoop out the center neatly leaving a shell of jelly an inch thick the center of course might be made hot and bottled for another occasion or to make bohemian cream jellies when the mold is masked fill it with the custard which must be half frozen then cover securely and pack in ice and salt at least 5 hours before it is served end of chapter 26 chapter 27 of choice cookery this is a librivox recording all librivox recordings are in the public domain for more information or to volunteer please visit librivox.org recording by Betty bee choice cookery by Katherine Owen chapter xxvii iced puddings filbert and wine iced pudding – one pint of cream put four tablespoonfuls of sugar and two glasses of fine sherry the cream must be perfectly sweet but should be at least 24 hours old and be ice-cold whipped this solid then freeze put a pint of filbert's in a cool oven till the skins will nearly all rub off put them between two close and rub as much as possible at the brown coating off them pound them to a paste with a little thick cream mix four ounces of sugar with the nuts and then blend the whole with enough thick custard to make a very thick batter flavor with lemon or vanilla or not as you choose freeze line a plain mold with the frozen wine cream an inch thick then fill in the center with the frozen filbert's well pressed in cover tight and pack in ice and salt for three hours or until wanted this pudding can be made at walnuts and port wine cream iced custard with fruit flavor one pint of cream with any liqueur you prefer be 12 eggs thoroughly strain them boil the cream with five ounces of sugar and when it is just off the boil pour it little by little to the eggs at a quarter of an ounce of gelatin that has been dissolved in very little water and strained to the custard whisk until cold have ready a mold masked with candied fruits to mask set the mold in a pan of cracked ice and dip each piece of fruit in strong melted jelly build up from the bottom of the mold having all the fruits cut about the thickness of a split candy cherry and near the size arranged with a view to a good effect when the MOL shall be turned out half freeze the custard and pour it in the mold three inches high throw in some of the trimmings of candied fruit chopped fine when set add more custard then more fruit until the mould is full let it stand in ice at least five hours before it is wanted rice a la Princesse let's summarise swell in water until quite tender proportion one cup of rice to two scant of water then butter a saucepan put the rice into it with half a pint of milk let it stew gently till it will mash the milk must have all been absorbed sweeten with three tablespoonfuls of sugar mix with this a Gill of apricot jam a teaspoon full of vanilla and half a pint of whipped cream freeze when well frozen packing a mold and bury in ice and salt pound a dozen maca stir them into a pint of whipped cream let the mixture be put on ice when the pudding is turned out of the mold cover with a macaroon cream and decorate the dish with cubes of peach or apricot jelly chocolate cream pudding boil a quarter of a pound of the finest vanilla chocolate in half a pint of milk whisking it well till it boils dissolve in it two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar beat three half pints of cream and three tablespoonfuls of sugar solid while the chocolate cools when it is ice-cold mix in 1/2 the beaten cream and freeze line a plain mold with the frozen chocolate the remainder of the whipped cream should have been kept in cracked ice and salt so as to be ice cold fill up the center of the mold with the cream cover tight and bury in salt and ice ice creams and ices there are so many ways of making ice cream that all one can do is to indicate the one or two best and certainly the very best is the simplest and there's no dessert so easy to prepare in hot weather as this since there is no work over the fire the only trouble is breaking the ice and turning the machine for some 20 minutes which can be done by a child simplest fruit ice cream mash 2 pounds of strawberries or raspberries put to them half a pound of powdered sugar and let them remain in a cold place 2 or 3 hours so that the juice may run then strain the juice to a quart of thick sweet cream and another 1/2 pound of sugar with the juice of half a lemon stir and pour cream and fruit juice into the freezer which must be packed with ice and rock salt in about equal quantities the ice being broken quite small let the cream remain standing in the freezer a few minutes before you begin to turn then freeze letting off the water and filling anew with ice and salt if necessary stir the cream down as it forms and keep on turning 5 or 10 minutes after it is actually necessary this extra working ensures that extreme smoothness characteristic of Italian and French ice cream if you are not expert freezing be satisfied not to pack your cream in a mold for the first few times take out the paddle of the freezer press the ice compact lay down in the freezer cover and see that the ice and salt are sufficient and free from water in two hours you can turn the ice out of the freezer in a round column or loaf that will be quite as sightly as the oblong square one frequently gets from the caterer many people think that simply freezing the pure cream produces the loose frothy cream found and inferior confectioner's but this is not the case pure cream frozen results in a firm smooth mess which cuts like butter I have given the formula for raspberry and strawberry cream only but any fruit juice may be substituted burying the quantity of sugar as required when it is desirable to freeze the fruit in the cream instead of the juice it must not be added until the cream is frozen stir in raspberries strawberries chopped pineapple banana or peaches just before the ice is ready to pack down otherwise the fruit being full of water will freeze into hard knots tutti-frutti ice cream being made from chopped candied fruit this precaution is not necessary the fruit may be added at any time during the freezing or stirred in last as you please I have given the simplest and best method of making ice cream yet the way Mostyn used is to add custard and French cooks always use meringue paste claiming that it ensures a smoothness and lightness nothing else can give custard for ice cream this is made as any other custard except that double the amount of sugar is allowed for everything that is to be frozen it may be made of from 3 to 6 eggs to a pint of milk as you prefer this must be ice cold before you put it in the freezer ice cream with eggs 1 pint of milk 3 eggs leaving out one white half a pound of sugar if acid fruit is to be added it may require more for some tastes make a custard of these materials and half freeze it then add a pint of cream whipped solid stir in well and finish freeze turning the handle some few minutes after it gets pretty stiff if there is a strong enough hand near to do it in making varieties of ice cream you have only to consider the fitness of the articles you use for instance any sort of fruit may be added with the exception of lemons fleshy fruits such as pineapple peaches pears etc are usually mixed with the cream uncooked in this country abroad this is only done with soft fruits such as raspberries blackberries oranges and such as will mash through a colander others are very slightly stewed in rich syrup as nearly their own juice as possible then pulped and mix through when the cream is nearly frozen in winter fruit jams and especially jellies are very pleasant in ice cream they always require a little lemon juice to restore some of the natural sharpness of fresh fruit a tumbler of red currant jelly turned into a pint of ice cream is delicious and gives a pretty faint pink tint the method is just the same whether for custard and cream or cream alone the meringue paste alluded to as used by foreign confectioner's is made by beating the white of an egg with a tablespoon full of powdered sugar until stiff grilled almond ice cream make a quart of ice cream Grill some almonds in the following way blanch four ounces of almonds dry them in a hot spot till they are brittle then put in a thick sauce pan or saute pan four ounces of sugar and a Gill of water let them boil five minutes throw in the almonds stir them till part of the sugar adheres and they begin to turn yellow take them up chop them and when quite cold stir them into the ice cream which should be flavored with vanilla end of chapter 27 chapter 28 of choice cookery this is a librivox recording all librivox recordings are in the public domain for more information or to volunteer please visit librivox.org recording by Betty bee choice cookery by Katherine Owen chapter 28 ice creams and water ices to those very fond of tea ice cream made with it is very acceptable and is very much used in English garden parties tea ice cream – 1 pound of granulated sugar put a pint of strong green tea a pint and a half of cream and two quarts of rich milk and a very little Cinnamon water let the whole simmer one minute not stirring but keeping the mixture in motion by gently swinging the saucepan freeze as usual this recipe may be used for coffee and chocolate it will make a large quantity and for a medium-sized family one quarter will suffice Chinese ice beat the yolks of 15 eggs with 3/4 of a pound of powdered sugar pound 4 ounces of pistachio nuts blanched with the white of an egg put 2 at 3 gales of water stir it over the fire in a double boiler till it is as thick as cream take great care that it does not boil color it green or part green and part yellow flavor as you please cut up a couple of candy Chinese oranges small and a little preserved ginger and freeze water Isis these are exceedingly simple and no more elegant form of refreshment can be offered than a plate of well frozen or a tumbler of half frozen water ice it is acceptable when ice-cream would be too heavy and can be offered at the simplest country afternoon tea or during a call without the seeming ostentation of ice cream ginger water ice to serve as a beverage if preferred take 6 ounces of preserved ginger free from fibre pound it make 2 quarts of lemonade by pairing 8 or 10 lemon so thinly that the knife blade shows through the yellow put the peel of 3 in a pitcher with a pound and a quarter of sugar pour 2 quarts of boiling water on them and cover squeeze and strain the juice from the lemons add to the water and when cold stir in the pounded ginger with the meringue paste made with the whites of 4 eggs freeze it if for drinking only half freeze work only enough to make like half melting snow and use only sugar enough to make a refreshing drink Italians call this Granito and it is a form of ice not often met with in this country pineapple water ice this can be readily made of canned pineapple when the fresh fruit is out of season peel a pineapple grade it into a mortar then pound it well with six ounces of sugar let it stand covered for an hour add the juice of five oranges and a pint and a half of syrup oil to the little thread or Alizee this syrup is much used in making water Isis punches etc it is sugar and water boiled till it forms a little thread between thumb and finger mix well and freeze if canned fruit is used you need less sugar and substitute lemon for half the orange juice almond water ice take one pound of almond paste a pint and a half of water and three-quarters of a pound of sugar grate the paste then stir till quite dissolved flavor with vanilla or raspberry stir in the whites of two eggs and some candied fruits cut up small fries as usual Cinnamon water ice this is a German ice and very much liked by those who are fond of the flavor pound an ounce of the finest quality of cinnamon in the stick put it into a pint and a half of boiling water and cover it well when it is cold at a quart of syrup the little thread and the well beaten whites of two eggs and freeze it pistachio water ice Blanche and pound a pound of pistachio nuts using the white of an egg to moisten mix with a quart of syrup Elysees heighten the color if too pale with spinach coloring and flavour to taste pistachio nuts have no flavour of their own astonishing as the fact may seem to those who have heard frequently of pistachio flavor freeze as usual apricot water ice there is no more delicious water ice than this if fine flavored apricots are used the canned ones are excellent for the purpose pulp two pounds of apricots through a sieve or jelly press great or pound very fine five or six almonds mix with the pulp the juice of the apricots from the can and a pint and a half of syrup and the beaten whites of three eggs made into a paste with three tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar stir all well and freeze this ice ought to be the color of apricots if too pale at a very little saffron coloring current water ice a pint of currant juice a pint of syrup and the whites of three eggs made into meringue paste freeze as usual any of these water ices can be half frozen as granita and served in glasses as granita the only exceptions being the almond and pistachio water Isis granita are also made of various kinds of light punches by adding to a quart of the usual punch recipe a quart of sweetened water any summer beverage made from fruit juice can be turned into a Granito by half freezing in either of the following ways to freeze granita mix the beverage you intend to freeze for instance we will say a pint of very strong clear bright coffee and half a pint of syrup Elysees put them into the freezer and turn as it becomes frozen up the sides scrape it down with a spoon and remember as soon as it resembles snowy water not white of course it is frozen enough it must be just liquid enough to pour out there is a second way of freezing granita by which they can be put on the table in the vessel in which they were frozen place the mixture in widemouth water bottles twirl them round in ice and salt and as the contents become frozen on the inside of the bottle scrape down with a narrow wooden stick or spatula when frozen imperfection the bottle should seem half filled with tiny crystals claret granito – one pint of orangeade at a bottle of claret half freeze sherry granito – one quart of lemonade at a bottle of sherry and freeze the housekeeper who lives far from a large city will need materials for many of the recipes given in these papers and others which she will meet with in books on high class cooking many of these can be sent for by mail and all of course by Express but it will often not seem worthwhile to send perhaps for one small bottle that we may lack for this reason I give a few directions for preparing very tolerable imitations of liqueurs which however unless it were a question of economy it might not be worthwhile doing if within reach of stores kurosawa para dozen and a half of dead ripe orange is so thin that you can see the knife pass under the rind pound one gram of finest cinnamon and half a dram of mace put them to steep for 15 days in a gallon of pure alcohol shaking it every day make a clarified syrup of four pounds of sugar and one quart of water well boiled and skimmed add this to the kurosawa rub up in a mortar one DRAM of potash with a teaspoon full of the liqueur when well mixed add it and then do the same with a dram of alum shake well and in an hour to filter through thin muslin it will be ready for use in a week maraschino brews two ounces of cherry kernels and one of bitter almonds put them in a deep jar with a thin outer rind of 12 oranges and five lemons steep in one gallon of English gin or alcohol let the whole stand a fortnight then filter and bottle mattefy a– blanch the kernels of uncooked peaches or apricots and when you have two ounces pound them and pour to them a quart of gin or alcohol and the thin yellow rind of two lemons sweetened with a pound of white sugar candy and leave the whole for two months then filter and bottle for use candied orange and lemon peels these are invaluable both as decoration for certain desserts and for culinary purposes and as they are not always to be found except in the larger cities the method of preparing them is here given throw the peels into salt and water all pulp being removed but the white part must be left untouched in fact the thicker the peel the better for the purpose thin skinned oranges being of no use for candy let them remain in the salt and water from nine days to three weeks then wash them put them on the fire in cold water and let them boil till perfectly tender yet they must not be mushy during the time they are boiling change the water until it no longer tastes salt lemon peels may take from 3 to 4 hours boiling orange peels less but remember should the lemon peel not be quite tender it will harden when it goes into syrup and instead of a rich sweet meat there will only be woody chips drain the peels and make a thin syrup of a pint of water to each pound of sugar let it boil 5 minutes then throw in the peels they must boil gently in this until they are clear and the syrup has become thick almost boiled away in fact now make another syrup half a pint of water – two pounds of sugar let it boil till clear until there is a short hair from the fork now put in the peels which must have been drained from the other syrup remove from the fire stir them round till the syrup looks whitish then lift each piece out and lay it on a dish on which granulated sugar has been freely sprinkled both orange and lemon peels are candied by the same process but they must never be put in the same vessel of salt and water nor must they be candied together or the distinctive flavors would be lost end of chapter 28 chapter 29 of choice cookery this is a librivox recording all librivox recordings are in the public domain for more information or to volunteer please visit librivox.org recording by Betty bee choice cookery by Katherine Owen chapter xxix miscellaneous sweets under this head I intend to give a few sweets that seemed to me unusually good although they may not always be novel except in manner of serving a compote of fruit has nothing new about it yet by the way in which it is served it may simply be stewed or it may be a dish fit to find a place even in choice cookery in making compost great care must be taken to preserve the shape and color of the fruits in order to do this they must be quickly peeled and dipped into strong lemon juice and water and dropped into syrup in which also a little lemon juice has been squeezed past the blade of the knife over its own marks to obliterate the appearance of peeling peaches and apricots may be boiled up without peeling and unless they are allowed to get too soft the skins will be removed easily it will be observed that hard fruits such as apples are simmered in thin syrup to get tender while rich soft fruits are dropped into syrup boiled to candy height apple compote number one cut up and boil half a dozen apples in a pint of water when they are quite soft strain the juice from them without squeezing put to it half a pound of granulated sugar and the zest of a lemon the zest is the peel so thin that the knife blade can be seen through it while paring together with the juice let the syrup boil for a minute skim it then pare half a dozen fine cooking apples for them let them boil gently in the syrup until quite tender but not in danger of breaking take them up on a perforated skimmer when cold put the apples into a compote dish boil the juice to a jelly pour part of it over the apples dip a plate in cold water drain it and then pour out the rest of the jelly into it it should only cover it about the thickness of thick paper when stiff warm the underside of the plate very slightly pass a broad thin knife under and lay the sheet of jelly over the apples in the compote dish apple compote number two prepare the apples as in last recipe but before the last sheet of jelly is laid over them or in a met with rings and leaves of Angelica and any red jelly or Preserve cut in thin slices and stamped out with tiny tin cutters in leaves stars or fancy shapes stiff red currant jelly of red quince may be used decorate thus each apple then lay the thin sheet of apple jelly overall compote of stuffed apples prepare the apple says in the foregoing recipes taking care to pour them all through without splitting the Apple when the apples are done fill the center with orange marmalade or apricot preserve boil the syrup down until it will glaze pour it over the apples when they are ice-cold the serb also only warm enough to remain liquid by this means the rich coating will remain over the apples while if both were warm it would run off compote of apples or pears green a if you have any apples or pears left from a compote or you may of course prepare them especially put them into a frying or saute pan over a brisk fire put with them any syrup there may be and a cup of sugar just dissolved in water boil rapidly down to a pale caramel rolling the apples with a fork so that they become covered with the caramel take great care that the syrup does not burn remove it from the fire the moment it begins to change color the apple should now have an even glossy surface as each is finished put it at once into the compote EA pour a little Kurosawa syrup round just before sending to table compote of apple marmalade this is not so troublesome to make as it sounds especially to anyone who has made glossy nuts a very general accomplishment nowadays reduce some apple marmalade by leaving it for an hour or two in a double boiler the water boiling round it will evaporate moisture without danger of burning stir occasionally and when the marmalade is so reduced that it will make the firm paste when cold try a little in a saucer on ice color 1/2 pink with co-channel spread half an inch thick on plates lightly oiled when stiff and cold cut out the marmalade into squares ovals diamonds leaves etc with tin cutters while pound of sugar with a Gil of water to the crack that is until a teaspoonful dropped in ice water will crack between the teeth oil a fork and a large dish and use the fork to drop the pieces of marmalade into the candy left them out quickly and lay them on the dish which will be better if it is set on ice when they are cold dish them in a pyramid the pink to contrast with the white effectively for a little liqueur flavored syrup around the base of the fruit compote of pears white use any fine flavored dessert pears cut them in halves core pair and trim neatly and simmer them in syrup a pound of sugar and juice of half a lemon – a pint of water till they are tender yet firm to the touch dish the pieces keeping them close to each other lay a thin sheet of apple jelly over them and the syrup boiled down till rich and thick round them a pink compote is prepared in the same way the only difference being that a very few drops of co-channel are added to the syrup before the pears go in decorate with Angelica pears a la princess select seven pairs of the best quality without blemish and of equal size pair them with great care stand them close together in a saucepan with weak acidulated syrup to cover them simmer slowly till quite tender but yet firm to the touch take them up leaving the syrup to boil down when cold cut the stalk end off each pair about an inch deep or so as to leave about an inch of surface on which place a ring of Angelica simply cut Angelica crosswise and it forms rings being tubular if the rings are flattened lay them in syrup when softened bend them round and lay one on each pair then if in season dip a fine strawberry or stoned red cherry in the hot syrup and lay it on the ring of Angelica cut strips of Angelica and run them through the strawberry down to the pair both to hold the decoration in place and to represent the stalk dish them standing when dished up pour some syrup boil till thick and rich over the seven pairs when fresh fruit is not in season for decoration use candied cherries variegated compote of pears this is a pretty dish prepare some pears as in the last recipe except that the tops are not to be cut off color half the number a pale pink by adding a few drops of coach kneel to the syrup in which they are simmered dress them alternately a pink pear and a white one in the compote EA pour over each the pink and white syrup in which they were cooked and pour syrup flavored with vanilla round them compote of oranges divide six oranges in half first cut out the center string of pith pick all pips out carefully and with a very sharp knife pair off the peel of the orange down to the Naked transparent pulp in this way you get rid of the whole of the white outside skin place the halves as you do them in a bowl pour over them some hot syrup boiled Alizee flavored with orange peel rubbed with lump sugar and previously dissolved in the syrup a very little lemon juice should be added if the oranges are very sweet let them steep a few minutes then remove them then build the oranges into a pyramid on the compote EA and the last thing before going to table pour the syrup well boiled and cold over them chestnut compote take the largest French or Spanish chestnuts make slits in the peel and boil till tender take off the shell and press them flat without breaking lay them in a saucepan pour over them thick syrup put them in the oven but do not let them boil when they look quite clear take them up put them into the compote EA boil the syrup to candy height squeeze into the compote EA the juice of an orange and pour the candy over the chestnuts chestnut compote number two prepare the nuts as in last recipe put the yolks of three eggs in a sauce in stir gradually to them a pint of cream cook a quarter of a pound of sugar to the crack with a few dried orange flowers the minute the candy begins to get yellowish pour it into the cream stirring constantly and let it come to boiling point then strain the cream over the chestnuts end of chapter 29 chapter 30 of choice cookery this is a librivox recording all librivox recordings are in the public domain for more information or to volunteer please visit librivox.org recording by Betty bee choice cookery by Katherine Owen chapter thirty miscellaneous sweets continued strawberries raspberries currants etc need very little cooking and that little in high candy if it is understood that strong syrup tends to make fruit firm and weak syrup to make it tender it will be seen why all soft fruit in order to keep its shape should be dropped into candy boil till brittle and why apples and other hard fruits should be first dude in weak syrup until soft yet there are degrees for instance hard peaches require thin syrup and very luscious ones must be put into syrup that is very near candy this is also the case with pears be guided as to the strength of the syrup by the kind of fruit avoid fruit that is very ripe because the syrup from it will not jelly readily compote of strawberries select a quart of fine large berries rather under than overripe oil 3/4 of a pound of sugar to the crack drop the strawberries into the syrup after it is removed from the fire return them to the range let them boil gently once take out the berries most carefully with the skimmer lay them on the compote EA boil the syrup fast skimming it carefully then pour it over the fruit compote of cherries is made in the same with the finest red cherries only they required to boil up several times when clear drain them with the skimmer lay them in the compote dishes add a Gill of red currant juice to the syrup boil until it is a weak jelly then throw it over the cherries when nearly cold orange baskets filled with fruits select seven oranges not too large but all the same size with a very sharp knife pare the fruit as thin as possible so thin that it still remains yellow and only the shining outer surface is removed in fact it may be lightly graded off but that is more trouble to render them transparent cut two quarters out of the upper part of the orange so as to leave a narrow band half an inch wide which will form the handle press the knife carefully round inside the band so as to remove the strip of pulp with the bowl of a tea spoon detach the remaining pulp from the handle without in any way damaging the shape of the basket as you prepare them drop them in a saucepan of cold water and then put them into boiling water and simmer three minutes gently this is only to soften the peel and enable you to stamp out the edges with the perforating cutter if you have one which will give them an openwork effect if not just scallop them with scissors and snip out a sort of trellis work to increase the basket effect put them into a preserving kettle with weak syrup Alizee boil them gently till they look clear then put them aside in the syrup till next day boil the syrup twice alone in intervals of several hours and throw it over the baskets these baskets may be kept ready prepared for months by putting them in wide jars and covering them with syrup when required for use they must be taken out drain thoroughly and then filled with a variety of small fruits such as cherries strawberries currants etc which have been mixed with a little apple or orange jelly in winter ambrosia a mixture of cut-up banana coconut orange quarters etc may be served in them or a mixture of preserved fruits that are firm such as Chinese oranges limes ginger etc in all cases serve them on a compote dish and throw over them syrup flavored with maraschino lemon baskets are prepared precisely as the orange baskets but they require longer boiling and the syrup they're served with should be flavored with Citronelle or the rest peel of green limes orange baskets glossy these are not much more trouble than the baskets simply preserved but have successfully done they can be very effectively filled with candies or ice cream prepare the baskets as in last recipe drain them on a napkin very carefully remove all moisture from the inside and set them over a register or in an oven with the door open to dry boil two pounds of sugar with a pint of water and two tablespoonfuls of vinegar till it begins to change color this is some little time after the brittle stage is reached and is called caramel lightly oil the skimmer and drop a basket in the candy remove as quickly as possible but see that the hole is well coated it has as little superfluous candy as possible for which reason the baskets must be warm when they are dipped also the skimmer you must not leave the candy on the fire after it begins to change color but the work of coating the baskets had better be done quite near the fire with the pot containing the candy on some part of where it will be kept hot but not cook they must be slipped on to an oil dish and needless to say most carefully handled other baskets are made with nougat others with pastry and the Swiss make what they call vashyron with almond paste and serve whipped cream in them but the idea may be extended and improved upon by serving dried fruits or candies or ice cream in them and they are a decided improvement on the paper baskets so often used for the last purpose being eatable Swiss veteran take half a pound of almond paste 3/4 of a pound of confectioner's sugar and the white of one egg shaved the almond paste stir the egg and sugar together and flavor with a little orange flower water or wine work all together with the hand into a smooth stiff paste that will roll out if there is a disposition to crack or crumble use more white of egg and almond paste roll it just as you would pie crust on the pastry board using confectioner sugar in place of flour line small cups or tartlet molds or anything that will make a good form for baskets which have been very slightly oiled put them aside to harden and dry chop a tablespoon full of blanched pistachio nuts till they are as fine as cornmeal mix with an equal quantity of granulated sugar trim the edges of the cups or baskets with scissors turn them out of the molds very carefully dip the edges in a saucer containing white of egg beaten to liquid the edges only need to be just wet have the chopped pistachio nuts and sugar also in a saucer dip the wet edge of the cup lightly into it and shake gently if properly done the cups will now have a pretty green border when these are filled with whipped cream sweetened flavored and colored they are called Swiss vacherin filled with plain whipped cream and the top covered with strawberries they are called Chantilly cups but they may be used in many decorative ways to hold preserves or candy fruits etc etc little china dishes this quaint recipe is from the immortal mrs. glass and on trial was found so unique an agreeable a variety to our modern fancies that was some little changes to suit our present ideas I give the last century dinky if you have any pretty shaped little tin dishes without fluting to mold and bake them in they are very little trouble to make take the yolks of two eggs two small table spoonfuls of sherry and one of rose water be together only enough to mix then use as much fine flour as will make a firm paste that can be rolled out exceedingly thin cover some nicely shaped little tin slightly buttered press to the form be careful the paste fits without creases and bake in a cool oven when the paste is crisp with very little change of color they are done do not touch them till they are cold as they may be brittle stir the white of an egg with the tablespoon full of rose water and confectioner sugar enough to make a smooth icing squeeze in the juice of half a lemon and when the little dishes are cold ice the underside only just stick enough to mask the pastry when they are dry and hard turn them over and ice the inside do this with great smoothness to look as much like porcelain as possible if you choose when the icing is quite hard you can wet the edge of the dishes with white of egg and dip them in chopped pistachio nuts and sugar like the Chantilly baskets or a non / else the smallest size they may be used to serve anything sweet from jelly to candies almond trifles with the almond paste used for Chantilly cups many trifles may be made with very little trouble for instance mix a tablespoon full of flour with the paste roll it out cut into circles pinch up two sides place a little handle over the center and in each open end which must be bent slightly upward place a candy cherry or cut a number of thin strips of paste stick them together in the middle with white of egg pass a strip of almond paste round so that the strip's look like of sticks let them just color in the oven sift sugar over them and put them away the paste may be rolled as thick as a pipe stem and tied in knots the surface just moistened and sugar sifted over them these also must only just take color in the oven these are only suggestions for using up the trimmings from the cups end of chapter 30 chapter 31 of choice cookery this is a librivox recording all librivox recordings are in the public domain for more information or to volunteer please visit librivox.org recording by Betty bee choice cookery by Katherine Owen chapter 31 miscellaneous sweets continued raspberry Charlotte Russe the simplest and quite the most effective way of making Charlotte's of any kind is the following take a strip of light cartridge or drawing paper from two to three inches wide measure round a mold the size you wish the Charlotte to be and cut it an inch larger piece the two ends together lapping an inch lay this paper circle on an ornamental dish the one you wish to use split ladyfingers and stand them around it inside like a picket fence only as close together as they will go inserting a pin from the outside through the paper and each cake as you do it when you have lined the paper completely you will have a closed frame of ladyfingers held in place by pins whip a pine a perfectly sweet cream that is at least 24 hours old and has been thoroughly chilled on ice sweeten the cream with two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar and flavor it with a tablespoon full of raspberry juice not syrup mixed with a tablespoon full of powdered sugar sometimes the raspberry juice will color the cream a beautiful faint pink which cannot be improved upon but if it is not bright enough in tint stir in one or two drops of coach anneal if the weather is warm stand the vessel containing the cream and ice then beat without stopping to skim the froth as it rises in about ten to fifteen minutes the cream ought to be perfectly solid if all the conditions were observed and the beating carried on in a cool area if however the cream is not solid enough to keep shape set it on ice for an hour and beat again fill the center of the of ladyfingers piling it high decorate either with chopped pistachio nuts lightly sprinkled or with rings of Angelica the raspberry juice used for flavoring is to be obtained at first-class druggists where the best quality of soda water is sold it is unsweetened and although I have kept it two or three months in cool weather it often will not keep many weeks it is therefore better to buy it by the gill or half pint if your druggist will sell it so than to buy a large bottle although it is so useful for making raspberry jelly raspberry shrub and many other things that even a bottle is not likely to be wasted it must not be confused with raspberry syrup which is heavily sweetened but not nearly so fragrant before serving the charlotte remove the pins and take the paper off Charlotte Russe with gelatin prepare a frame as in last recipe also beat a pint of cream sweetened and flavoured with wine or to taste melt in a pint of milk half an ounce of gelatin the French gelatin is very pure easy to melt and no more expensive than any other good kind and for delicate uses preferable to them make the gelatin and milk into a custard with two eggs sweetened with two tablespoonfuls of sugar flavor to taste and put to get cold stirring it once in a while when it begins to thicken round the size of the vessel beat with the egg beater till foamy you have now a vessel of whipped custard and one of whipped cream both cold now mix the cream into the custard a little at a time giving the spoon a light upward movement do not stir it that deadens the cream your object is to keep it light when all is mixed fill the frame of cake with the spongy mixture decorated either with drops and piping's of the mixture apply to the smooth surface or with candied fruits cut into forms or various colored jellies of course a Charlotte Russe can be varied in many ways it may be filled with the made with chocolate and Sobe Brown Charlotte or the filling may have apricot or currant jelly whipped into it with the gelatin this is an admirable change almond turban make half a pound a fine puff paste give it 9 turns roll at the last time to the thickness of a dollar have ready half a pound of almonds blanched and chopped put them in a bowl with half a pound of powdered sugar and the whites of two eggs adding a very little more if the icing is too stiff to spread spread the almond icing on the pastry as thick as a 25-cent piece with a sharp knife cut the pastry into strips 2 and a half inches long and one in breadth bake these in a moderate oven a very pale Brown make a circle on a dish of some firm marmalade or jam when the almond cakes are cold dress them in a crown on the jam which serves to keep them in place fill the center of the turban with vanilla ice cream or simple whipped cream find small cakes for dessert it may not be worth the while of a busy housekeeper within reach of a first-class confectioner's to make these because although when a fine quality they are always expensive yet they are also tedious to make many however live in country towns where there's no possibility of obtaining anything better than the sandy products of the country bakery a few really fine cakes can be made at a time and kept in an airtight box with layers of paper between for some time in speaking however of the tediousness I would not discourage the reader for there are a few more tedious things in cooking than the rolling out making and baking of thin cookies or Ginger Snaps and the result attained so inadequate route biscuits boil a pound of sugar and half a pint of milk grate into it the rind of a lemon when cold rub half a pound of butter into a pound and a half of flour and a pound of almond paste graded fine put as much carbonate of soda as would lie on a silver die into the milk and mix with the flour and almond paste beat two eggs and make the hole into a firm smooth paste print this paste with very small butter molds if you have them making little cakes just like the tiny Pat's of butter one gets at City restaurants bake on a well buttered pan in a quick oven a very pale yellow macaroons these must be exempted from the charge of being tedious they are so easily and quickly made one pound of almond paste graded one pound and a half of sugar and the whites of seven eggs some confectioner's use a teaspoon full of flour with the idea that the macaroons are not so apt to fall I recommend a trial of both methods they will both be good stir the sugar and the beaten white of eggs together just enough to mix then by degrees add the grated paste mashing with the back of a fork till it forms a perfectly smooth paste oil several sheets of paper cut to the size of your baking pans dripping pans may be used if you have no regular baking sheets lay a sheet of paper at the bottom of the pan put half a teaspoonful of the macaroon paste on a scrap of buttered paper in the oven if it spreads too much it requires a very little more sugar if it does not spread at all or so little as to leave the surface rough it is too stiff and requires perhaps half the white of an egg or the finger dipped in water and laid on each macaroon after they are on the paper is often sufficient a little practice is all that is necessary lay the paste and 1/2 teaspoon fulls on the oiled or greased paper if the trial one indicated that they were slightly too stiff lay a wet finger on each sift powdered sugar over and then put a pinch of chopped and blanched almonds in the center with just enough pressure to keep them in place as the macaron spreads in the oven the almonds scatter themselves macaroons should be baked about 20 minutes in a moderate oven they must be taken out while they are very pale brown but they must also be quite set or they will fall if the oven is too quick they will Brown too soon in that case leave the oven door open taking care that no cold draught can blow on the macaroons you can tell if they have brown too quickly by the cracks in them being still white and sticky when done both the cracks and surface should be the same pale color the macaroons must be left 5 minutes in the pan after leaving the oven without being touched at the end of that time they may be gently taken off the pans on the papers from which they must not be detached until they are quite cold should they stick to the paper moisten the back of it fine ginger dessert cakes well path a pound of fresh butter into 3/4 of a pound of flour beat three eggs with 3/4 of a pound of powdered sugar and half a glass of rose water the grated peel of a lemon and a teaspoon full of the best powdered ginger use the ginger carefully trying a level spoonful first then mix all into a paste if the flavor of ginger is not strong enough add more they should taste well of it without being hot in the mouth roll the paste a quarter of an inch thick and cut into small oval or round cakes sift powdered sugar over them and bake rather slowly a very pale Brown end of chapter 31 chapter 32 of choice cookery this is a librivox recording all librivox recordings are in the public domain for more information or to volunteer please visit librivox.org recording by Betty bee choice cookery by Katherine Owen chapter xxxii fine cakes and sauces Madeline's four ounces of butter 4 ounces of the best flour three ounces of sugar a teaspoon full of orange flower water the yolks of four eggs and rind of a lemon beep butter sugar and yolks of eggs together then add the other ingredients grate in the rind of half a lemon and add the well beaten whites of eggs last of all fill little molds that have been buttered with washed butter cover the tops with split almonds and sifted sugar bake from 30 to 40 minutes in a moderate oven these cakes are sometimes served hot with apricot sauce chestnut croquettes boil 50 sound chestnuts take them out of the shells reject all imperfect ones keep the large pieces aside pound the crumbs and most broken pieces with an ounce of butter until smooth they mix in a small cup of cream 2 ounces of butter and 1 ounce of powdered sugar put the whole into a double boiler and stir in the beaten yolks of 6 eggs let the mixture set when cool make it into balls in the center of each ball put a piece of the chestnut you have laid aside dip the balls in fine cracker meal and eggs and fry a very pale yellow serve with sifted sugar very pretty cakes very easily made which come under the French term petit four may be given here petit four make rich cake mixture thus wash three-quarters of a pound of butter to free it from excess of salt squeeze it dry in a cloth beat it with the hand till creamy add 3/4 of a pound of powdered sugar beat till light then beat in ten eggs one by one and sift in a pound of dried and sifted flour when all are well beaten together the paste or batter is ready for use line some shallow pans those used for making rolled jelly cake are best with buttered paper spread a layer of the mixture just as you would for jelly cake but much thicker as when baked the sheet should not be more than the third of an inch thick Bank slowly when done removed from the oven but leave the cake undisturbed till cold if the sheets are large they may be cut exactly in half spread the with some stiff marmalade or jelly quince or apricot is best but any rich flavor with some tartness will do lay one half on the other and press closely and very neatly together do each sheet of cake in the same way varying the marmalade if you choose have ready a bowl of icing either boiled French icing or what is called royal icing dust the top of the cakes with flour which must be brushed off again as it is only to absorb the grease flavor the icing with vanilla and lay it on the center of the cake let it run over it aiding with a knife dipped in water shaking off the drops however the icing needs to be very neatly done and must not be thicker than a 25-cent piece now color the icing in the bowl pink with a little coach anneal add a drop or two of extract of bitter almond or of lemon either of which will agree with the vanilla that was in the white icing then ice another sheet of cake in the same way a third may be done with chocolate icing the beauty of these cakes will depend on the way they're cut you may choose to make them tablets an inch wide and three inches long or in Lauzon shape the true diamond but in either case the cutting must be exempt the best way to have it so is to mark the lines very lightly with the point of a penknife on the icing using a measure trim off the edge of the cake with a sharp knife so that it is neat all around no excess of marmalade using out or tears of icing running down then warm a sharp carving knife I am supposing the cake is on a board and cut through the lines you have marked without hesitation so that there may be no crumbs or roughness which slow over careful cutting causes when cut up you should have if neatly done an assortment of very delicious and ornamental cakes French sweet sauces for puddings etc sauce Madera Alomar Milan a half pound of apricot marmalade half a tumbler Madeira or sherry boil three minutes then pass through and serve as sauce to souffles cabinet puddings etc sauce days oof okay SH beat the yolks of eight eggs put them in a saucepan with half a tumbler of Kirsch five ounces of powdered sugar and half the rind of a lemon grated stir all in a double boiler until the mixture sticks to the spoon then remove from the boiling water stir for a minute to prevent curdling then it is ready to serve shondo sauce take two whole eggs six yolks of eggs and eight lumps of sugar each one rubbed on lemon peel two pints of Chablis and the juice of half a lemon beat them over a slow fire in a double boiler till a light froth is formed be very careful the eggs do not curdle when the boiling point is reached take the sauce off the fire and continue beating for a minute or two if small streaks appear on the froth the sauce is done stir in a tablespoon full of fine rum and the sauce is ready to serve sherry sauce for puddings six yolks of eggs one ounce of sugar half a pint of sherry and the thin peel of a lemon beat the eggs with the sugar when the wine is warm stir them into it let the lemon peel steep in the wine while warming stir all together till as thick as cream then remove from the fire and take out the peel in making all these sauces with eggs the same precaution is required as in making custard wine sauce number two three gills of water one cup of sugar one teaspoon full of cornstarch and one Gill of wine mix the cornstarch with a little water pour the rest boiling to it stirring till smooth then add the sugar and boil for five minutes then add the wine and a few drops of essence of lemon and the same of cinnamon use these flavorings drop by drop as they differ in strength too much for an exact quantity to be given and the taste must be the guide rum or brandy may be used instead of wine then the cinnamon is a minute apricot sauces 1/2 a small jar of apricot jam or marmalade dissolve it in 3/4 of a Gill of water with the juice of a lemon stir in 3/4 of a Gill of rum this sauce is simply made hot not boiled and may be served cold with baba or Sava a cake greengage marmalade may be substituted whipped sweet sauce put the yolks of four eggs into a double saucepan with two ounces of sugar one glass of sherry the juice of one lemon and a speck of salt beat all together then set the saucepan over the fire and whisk the sauce till it is a creamy froth when it is ready to serve very fine sweet butter sauce wash four ounces of butter squeeze it dry beat it to a hard sauce with half a pound of powdered sugar then put the yolks of two eggs in a cold bowl stir in a minute then add to it a little of the heart sauce when well mixed add more about a teaspoon full at a time when the hard sauce is blended with the yolks of eggs stir in by degrees a wine glass of brandy or rum keep on I still wanted vanilla cream sauce put half a pint of fresh cream to boil reserving a table spoon full mix this with a teaspoon full of flour stir it into the cream with a tablespoon full of sugar when near boiling when it boils stir for five minutes or ten in a double boiler then pour out the sauce and stir in a small teaspoon full of vanilla and a few drops of extract of rose or a teaspoon full of rose water observe that the Rose is used to give a different tone to the vanilla and not to impart its own flavor therefore very little must be used almond sauce dissolve four ounces of almond paste in half a pint of sweet cream by stirring in a double boiler the almond paste should be graded first when both are hot add a tablespoon full of sugar and the yolk of an egg stir till the egg thickens then removed from the fire and serve end of chapter 32 chapter 33 of choice cookery this is a librivox recording all librivox recordings are in the public domain for more information or to volunteer please visit librivox.org recording by Betty bee choice cookery by Katherine Owen chapter 33 salads and cheese dishes salad has come to form part of even the simplest dinners and certainly called me and salad an excellent bread and butter make a meal by no means to be despised even by an Epicure while cold meat and bread and butter sound very untempered will perhaps always be white crisp lettuce with a simple French dressing although to those acquainted with it escarole runs it hard with its cool watery ribs and crisp leaves elaborate salads or those dressed with mayonnaise are too heavy to form the latter part of an already sufficiently nourishing meal but for luncheons and suppers the rich salad is invaluable salad which is to be eaten with game or to form a course at dinner may be a crisp white cabbage lettuce watercress romaine lettuce or that most delicious form of endive escarole the dressing should be the simple French dressing about which so much has been written and said and which is so easy that perhaps it is one reason why self you make it well there is nothing to remember beyond the proportions and so many keep the quantity of oil vinegar and pepper and salt in mind but the manner of using them seems of no consequence but it is of so much consequence if you do not want the vinegar on the leaves and the oil at the bottom of the salad bowl that well known as the formula is I am going over it again with a few details that may help to fix the matter in mind in the first place it must be remembered that a wet leaf will repel oil therefore the lettuce or other salad must be well dried before it is sent to table this is done by swinging in a salad basket and then spreading it between two cloths for a few minutes now it must be quite evident if a leaf wet with water will refuse to retain oil that one wet with vinegar will do the same for this reason the leaves should be covered with oil before the vinegar is added or the salad will be crude and very unlike what it should be if properly mixed in the following way take lettuce as the example although any of those mentioned are made in the same way have the lettuce dry in the salad bowl put in the salad spoon a salt spoonful of salt 1/4 1 of pepper and holding it over the bowl fill the spoon with oil mix the salt and pepper well with it and turn it over the salad toss the salad lightly over and over till the leaves glisten then add 2 if for epicures three or four more spoonfuls of oil then toss again over and over until every leaf is well coated with oil then sprinkle in a salad spoon full of sharp vinegar toss again and the salad is ready once salad less well-known than it deserves to be is that made from the grapefruit this is an especially grateful dish for spring breakfast when cool refreshing things are in order many tell me they have tried to eat grapefruit but find it quite impossible on account of the intense bitter there is a very slight and pleasant bitter with grapefruit when properly prepared but if by carelessness or ignorance even a small portion of the pith is left in it intense bitter is imparted to the whole grapefruit salad prepare the fruit some hours before it is wanted in the following way cut the fruit in four as you would and orange separate the sections then remove the pulp from each taking care that no white pith or skin adheres to it put the pulp on the ice until just before serving then dressed with oil and vinegar exactly as directed for lettuce etc meat or fish salad should always dressed with mayonnaise I say nothing of the well-known lobster and chicken salads which are so general that one is tempted to think the majority of people do not know how excellent some other combination salads are salmon salad the fish flaked laid on a bed of crisp lettuce with a border of the leaves and masked with mayonnaise with the garnish of aspic is both handsome and delicious but called halibut or even Cod any firm fish that flakes in fact make delightful salads and acceptable to many who cannot eat lobster in the way of meat salads Partridge or grouse are far danger than chicken prepared in just the same way there is one point however which should be observed in making all meat salads it is that the material should be well dressed with oil vinegar and condiments before the mayonnaise is put on usually one of two courses is followed either the meat is left dry the mayonnaise being supposed sufficient or it is dressed with mayonnaise and then masked with it in the latter case the salad is far too rich in the former it is flat because mayonnaise if rightly made has not acidity enough to flavor the meat therefore it and the celery or other salad mixed with it should be bathed with French dressing before it is masked with these general rules any salad may be made but his variety is the spice of the table it may be borne in mind that in spring a sprig of mint very finely chopped gives a fragrance to lettuce as does chervil or borage parsley or a tiny bit of onion to a game salad nothing should be added no recipe is needed for mayonnaise it having been given in the chapter on cold sauces in the course of these chapters several cheese dishes have been given but there are a few others especially appropriate to the cheese and salad course where it constitutes part of the dinner which I will include cheese dishes are far less popular in this country than in Europe but there are families whose masculine member eat no sweets and for whom a dainty cheese dish would be very acceptable Genoa ramekin cut a slice of Vienna or other Baker's bread half an inch thick lengthwise of the loaf so that it covers the bottom of a fireproof dish a souffle pan well buttered is excellent be two eggs and half a pint of milk together at a level salt spoonful of salt pour this custard over the bread and leave it an hour to soak pour off any custard that may not be absorbed dust the bread with pepper then cover with the following mixture to solve as much rich cheese shaved in half a gill of cream as will cover the bread an inch thick stirring it over a slow fire season with pepper and salt and pour the cheese over the bread put it in the oven and bake for half an hour or till quite Brown cheese puffs line patty-pans with puff paste and fill three parts full with a following mixture put a Gill of cream in a double boiler with two ounces of grated cheese half parmesan if light a salt spoonful of salt a pinch of pepper a pinch of sugar and a large teaspoon full of butter when all is melted to a thick custard break into a two eggs well whipped the mixtures only to be made hot enough to melt the cheese not to boil cheese sticks take a piece of light bread dough about the size of a teacup roll it out on a pastry board spread it with bits of firm butter dredge with flour fold and roll repeat until you have rolled in two ounces of butter just us four puffs paste now roll the pastry out the third of an inch thick cut into strips half an inch white and any length you think proper lay them very straight on a baking sheet and bake slowly a very light brown remove from the oven let them cool then brush them over with white of egg and roll them quickly in grated Parmesan return for a minute or two to the oven these are very good with salad but cannot easily be made in warm weather should the pastry get too soft while rolling put it on ice and it is better to do so at all times before cutting into strips so that the sticks may be quite straight end of chapter 33 end of choice cookery by Katherine Owen